History and temples
A small pilgrimage town in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand. Set in deodar (cedar) woodland and home to a complex of 124 temples dating back to the 8th century. The main temple is home to one of the twelve jyotrilinga of Lord Siva.
Above the town on a ridge of nearly 3000m is the temple of Briddh Jageshwar. Here, there is a 180ยบ view of the Himalayan peaks of Trissul, Nanda Devi, Panchchuli and the Annapurnas in Nepal. There is also a temple complex half way between Jageshwar and Artola called Dandeshwar. You'll also spot numerous small temples by the woodland road between Jageshwar and Dandeshwar.
Jageshwar houses nearly 200 temples built in honor of Shiva Mahadeva. Considered to represent one of the 12 jyotirlingas in India, Jageshwar attracts thousands of devotees during Shivratri very year. They are very sacred centers for the worship of Shiva and are said to have tantric powers too. The town is situated about 34 km from Almora town, on the way to Pithoragarh and Naini. The place is marked for its peaceful environment and pious rendition. Embellished with the tall deciduous deodar trees and winding river Jata Ganga, which finds its way to the side of the temple complex. The continuous chain of snowcapped mountain ranges loom large over this beautiful temple site. Often, pious men from the Himalayas come down here to meditate. Many travelers are also tempted to sit down for some meditation in these portals of piety.
HISTORY
History tells that during the 4th and 5th centuries AD, when the Gupta emperors held sway, the Kumaon hills were being governed by an independent dynasty of Katyuri kings. They selected this site for building temples. The temples originally constructed during the Gupta period were renovated by the rulers of the Ghand dynasty in the 7th century AD. Numerous temples were constructed or restored during the Gurjara Pratihara era and also in the 15th and 16th centuries.
The Mahamrityunjaya temple seems to be the oldest of all the temples and dates back to the 8th century AD. The temples of Surya, Navagraha and Neelkantheshvara are of late Katyuri age. It is said that originally four hundred temples existed here, of which only about one hundred and eight have survived.
ATTRACTIONS
There is a gigantic temple structure known as Dandeshwar temple, dedicated to one of the aspects of Lord Shiva. The temple complex is charming and antiquated with fine samples of ancient iconography. Apart from an 18th-century icon of the dancing Shiva, there is a huge iron bell at the gateway of the temple. The bell forms an important link between the local deity known as Gollu Devta and Lord Shiva.
Most of the shrines are dedicated to Shiva, who is addressed by diverse names. Jageshwara is only a version of Yogisvara (Lord of Yogis). There are other shrines with variegated names of Shiva like Dandeshavara, Nilakantheshvara, Mahamrityunjaya, etc. Other temples dedicated to Surya (the Sun God), Navadurga (nine manifestations of the goddess Durga), Kalika, Pushtidevi and Kubera are also present here. These shrines were built by professional builders by the name of Shivism. They belonged to the Lakulish sect. The jyotirlinga at Jageshwar is visited by thousands of Shiva devotees who come to offer prayers during Shivratri.
The temples belong to the simple Nagara style variety. There is a tall curvilinear spire shikhara, surmounted by an amalaka (capstone) and a kalasha crown. The square sanctum sanctorum has its entrance through a carved doorway. Most of the temples have the stone lingams. Impressive stone images are seen around the altar. Two ashtadhatu (an alloy of eight metals) images are outstanding. Particular mention may also be made of a highly impressive image of Ganesha. The Ekamukhalinga is one of the rarest specimens in northern India. There are two magnificent life-sized dwarapalas (door guardians) outside the Jagannath temple.
FAIRS & FESTIVALS
The famous Pooram Festival (April/May) is celebrated at the Vaddakkunnath Temple. There are nightlong fireworks and a magnificent elephant procession. Shivratri (in March/April) is also celebrated with great fanfare. During Onam, the harvest festival (August/September), the entire state wears a festive look.
PLACES AROUND JAGESHWAR
About 3 km uphill Jageshwar is a small temple called Vriddha Jageshwar. This temple is said to be the abode of Shiva, before he came down to Jageshwar. The fascinating aspect about Jageshwar and Vriddha Jageshwar is the unremitting peace they emanate. There are caves all along the countryside.
Dandeshwar
The government museum in Jageshwar opened a few years ago to preserve some of the most historic artifacts found around these temples, it is free to visit.
Climate
Jageshwar's temperature range is similar to much of northern Europe. Between April and September temperature is between 25-30°C (max) 10-15°C (min). The temperature falls through October and until March there may be cold frosty nights. During winter months the sun quickly thaws the frost, however during cloudy days freezing temperatures remain. The driest months are November-March, with only occasional light precipitation. Snowfall is possible during these months, but it does not tend to linger for long. The monsoon occurs during July-September when heavy rainfall should be expected, heavy prolonged periods of rain are also possible from April-June.
Shops
Jageshwar is not a tourist shopping Mecca. Shops tend to cater for local needs, numerous shops sell a narrow range of toiletries and food stuffs. Snacks of crisps, namkeen and biscuits are readily available. Fruit and vegetables vary according to the season, the range tends to be quite small. If you enjoy using toilet paper it may be advisable to go prepared, as the Asian manual bidet is the preferred method. There are no clothes shops. Small stalls sell temple related paraphernalia. A number of simple cafes exist in Jageshwar. The dhaba to the right of Tara Photo Shop is recommended for Aloo poori, the Dhaba to the left serves a great value Thali. Further out of town towards the Government museum small stalls sell Chow Mein.
Economics
The standard of education is high around Kumaon. Most people have a good understanding of English but do not have the confidence or experience to manage conversational English very well. The main industry around Jageshwar is farming, mainly on a subsistence level, with some excess being sold on. Because of this, most men capable of achieving employment elsewhere have to leave the area, many join the army or work in businesses in Delhi and the larger towns and cities on the plains, leaving women to tend the land. Tourism is a developing field, the area could not be visited by foreigners without permits from 1967 until the 1990s due to border concerns with China, leaving the beauty 'undiscovered' compared to neighbouring Himachal Pradesh. An unfortunate consequence of growing tourism in Jageshwar has been some children requesting, pens, biscuits and rupees from foreigners over the past few years, fortunately this is not persistent or unpleasant as yet. There are a large number of families reliant on income from Pandits at the temple, at present the Pandits are relatively restrained in their attempts to obtain this income from foreigners. Please be considerate about your behaviour and the impact this will have on local lives. Although Charas is very noticeable around Jageshwar it has not become part of the tourist economy. The sad influence of this drug and certain backpacker behaviour is available nearby to Almora at Kasar Devi where it is much better enjoyed and tolerated!
HOW TO REACH
Climate
Jageshwar's temperature range is similar to much of northern Europe. Between April and September temperature is between 25-30°C (max) 10-15°C (min). The temperature falls through October and until March there may be cold frosty nights. During winter months the sun quickly thaws the frost, however during cloudy days freezing temperatures remain. The driest months are November-March, with only occasional light precipitation. Snowfall is possible during these months, but it does not tend to linger for long. The monsoon occurs during July-September when heavy rainfall should be expected, heavy prolonged periods of rain are also possible from April-June.
Shops
Jageshwar is not a tourist shopping Mecca. Shops tend to cater for local needs, numerous shops sell a narrow range of toiletries and food stuffs. Snacks of crisps, namkeen and biscuits are readily available. Fruit and vegetables vary according to the season, the range tends to be quite small. If you enjoy using toilet paper it may be advisable to go prepared, as the Asian manual bidet is the preferred method. There are no clothes shops. Small stalls sell temple related paraphernalia. A number of simple cafes exist in Jageshwar. The dhaba to the right of Tara Photo Shop is recommended for Aloo poori, the Dhaba to the left serves a great value Thali. Further out of town towards the Government museum small stalls sell Chow Mein.
Economics
The standard of education is high around Kumaon. Most people have a good understanding of English but do not have the confidence or experience to manage conversational English very well. The main industry around Jageshwar is farming, mainly on a subsistence level, with some excess being sold on. Because of this, most men capable of achieving employment elsewhere have to leave the area, many join the army or work in businesses in Delhi and the larger towns and cities on the plains, leaving women to tend the land. Tourism is a developing field, the area could not be visited by foreigners without permits from 1967 until the 1990s due to border concerns with China, leaving the beauty 'undiscovered' compared to neighbouring Himachal Pradesh. An unfortunate consequence of growing tourism in Jageshwar has been some children requesting, pens, biscuits and rupees from foreigners over the past few years, fortunately this is not persistent or unpleasant as yet. There are a large number of families reliant on income from Pandits at the temple, at present the Pandits are relatively restrained in their attempts to obtain this income from foreigners. Please be considerate about your behaviour and the impact this will have on local lives. Although Charas is very noticeable around Jageshwar it has not become part of the tourist economy. The sad influence of this drug and certain backpacker behaviour is available nearby to Almora at Kasar Devi where it is much better enjoyed and tolerated!
The nearest railway station, at Kathgodam, is 135 km away. Jageshwar is just 34 km by road from Almora. Many buses and taxis ply regularly. One can also come via Nainital, which is 100 km southwest of Jageshwar.
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